Trusted Tips and Resources

Trusted Tips & Resources

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions your Trusted Regina Turf and Lawn Experts share a tip on New Lawn Care Instructions

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions in Regina is a family owned Regina Landscaping company that has helped their customers achieve sod quality lawns at less than half the price.They also do conventional seeding and are suppliers of all types of turf grass seed, native grass seed and low maintenance grass seed products.

Rapid Lawn - The EASY and ECONOMICAL way to GROW GRASS

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions are your Trusted Regina Turf and Lawn Experts! 

Here they share a tip on New Lawn Care Instructions:

Newly Hydroseeded Lawn Care

10 to 14 days
Germination takes place, water 3 to 4 times a day for about 30 days
Golden rule – ground wet all day (without standing water for more than 1 hour)
Every lawn and every irrigation system is unique. When in doubt apply golden rule.  

 

14 to 45 days
(Optional)
- Fertilize lightly with fertilizer (half of recommended amount)
Starter fertilizer is O.K. 

 

30 to 60 days
- First mowing takes place when 50% of lawn is 2″ or higher.
Mower must be sharp and clean of debris. Mower height set at 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches.
Fertilize again with half the recommended amount of starter fertilizer.
Mow weekly from now on (this is critical! It will force grass plants to spread out and fill in)
Water only once a day (early morning preferred) from now on. 

 

90 to 120 days
- Apply a good quality weed and feed!
Follow directions on bag exactly as stated.
Depending on your environment, this step may need to be repeated. 

 

Key Notes:

- The first 14 days of watering is critical to proper germination.
Review watering times daily to insure complete coverage of areas.
Adjust sprinklers or water times as needed. Do not “over water” or water at night! 

 

- Depending on your environment and (or) seed bed preparation. Weeds may or may not
grow with the new grass. They may be killed at a later time with normal applications of
weed and feed.

 

- After grass is established mowing height should be at least 3″ but not more than 5″.
3 1/2″ or 4 1/2″ is recommended (dwarf varieties may be lower)

 

 

- Fertilize 3 to 4 times a year with good quality fertilizer.

 

 

- Due to differences in soil condition and Ph balances, it is not uncommon to have small
patches that do not germinate. Many of these areas will fill in when you begin mowing
on a weekly basis. You must ensure that slow germinating areas are not caused by lack
of water!

 


Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions has several tips to help you with your landscaping.


Connect with Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions on Facebook here!

 

 

 

Trusted Regina landscape expert share a tip on how to revive a thinning lawn

 

Find Trusted Regina Landscape and lawn professionals HERE

 

Here's great article on how to revive a thinning lawn in response to a Facebook fan question: 

Overview

Lawn looking thin, bare or brown? You can revitalize it in a weekend using just one or two tools from a local rental or garden center. The power core aerator (Photos 1 and 2) loosens any compacted soil in your yard and breaks up thatch. Thatch is a cushion of old, partially decayed grass roots and stems that develop in many sodded lawns (Figure A). It separates the actively growing crown of the grass plant from the soil surface.

The power rake (Photo 3) is equipped with vertical fixed tines to cut the soil and prepare a thinned-out lawn for reseeding.

For you Northern homeowners whose lawns experience a hard freezing winter, the first dew in August is your signal that it's time to aerate to ensure lush grass next spring. For homeowners in warmer or more arid states, aerate your lawn next spring to boost those warm-climate grass varieties before they go dormant in mid-summer. 

Make a Plan: Examine your yard

Power aerators and power rakes can usually be rented by the hour, half day or day. Because these two machines are in high demand (especially on weekends), ensure that your work plan will flow uninterrupted by reserving both machines in advance. Save some money by first renting the aerator, then picking up the power rake when you drop off the aerator. Rejuvenate your lawn using these strategies:

  • Budget your time: You should be able to aerate and power rake up to 5,000 sq. ft. in three to four hours.
  • Avoid renting aerators that are equipped with spikes and only roll over the lawn and perforate it. The core aerators that actually remove soil plugs—like the one shown—are vastly superior because they open up more soil volume.
  • Recruit a buddy who has either a pickup truck or a minivan to help wrangle these heavy lawn machines home and back to the rental center. Inquire whether your rental center offers delivery and pickup (at additional cost).
  • If your grass is thinned out, adopt a more aggressive plan for total lawn rejuvenation by following the steps shown in Photos 3 and 4.
  • If your lawn has excess thatch or you've laid new seed, use the spreader and apply decomposter mix to both accelerate the decay of thatch left in the turf and increase seed germination and rooting (Photo 5).
  • Complete any plan by watering your lawn with up to 1/2 in. of water for thin lawns and 1/4 in. for bare soil. Over-watering will wash away the seed and nutrients.

If you've never used an aerator or a power rake, practice on an isolated section of your yard. The first time I used a power core aerator, it nearly dragged me off the lawn and into the street. My uncle still enjoys recounting that story.

Figure A: Revitalize your lawn

How Compaction and Excess Thatch Ruin Your Lawn

The zone where grass meets soil is an amazing micro world of plant roots, bacteria, insects and complex chemical reactions. Healthy soil is soil that's loose enough to allow air, water and nutrients to pass into it to foster plant growth. Keep these concepts in mind:

Compacted soil strangles roots
The causes are many: In existing lawns, the top 1 to 1-1/2 in. of soil becomes compacted over time from foot traffic, riding lawn mowers, high clay content and rain. New lawns often have problems—beginning with home construction or remodeling—when topsoil is bulldozed, remixed with subsoil and over-compacted. Sod lawns that are hastily laid over unevenly graded lots look good enough for the contractors to get paid, but they can manifest problems after one or two growing seasons. In both cases, the eventual outcome is choked and starved grass roots.

Too much thatch chokes the lawn
Thatch is a tightly woven layer of partially decomposed grass roots and stems that can develop over several years in the zone between the crown of the grass and the soil surface. Contrary to myth, grass clippings don't contribute to thatch buildup, and power raking doesn't cure it. Thatch becomes a problem when it's thicker than 1/4 in. It's a sign that lawns have been over-watered at night, damaged by drought, over-fertilized with high nitrogen fertilizer or that the soil is too alkaline. Thatch occurs most often in new lawns when sod is installed over dips and voids in the regraded yard or in poor or improperly prepared soil and is then incorrectly watered. Break down excess thatch by using a rotary spreader loaded with thatch decomposter mix on the lawn (Photo 5).

You can reverse the damage
Revitalize compacted soils once a year. Run a power core aerator over the lawn to pull up plugs of dirt, creating voids in the subterranean soil to provide space for and stimulate new root growth (Figure A). The slashing action of the power rake's vertical tines slits the soil's surface where seed, nutrients and water can combine to regenerate the lawn.

America is serious about growing grass. Since the mid-'90s, the total acreage of lawns (homes, golf courses, businesses, etc.) has exceeded the amount of land used for agriculture. Soil types and grass varieties differ by climate and region. Learn more about your soils, grass varieties and recommended lawn care practices by talking with experts at garden centers or a county extension agent. For a more complete lawn assessment, take along two 4 x 4 x 4-in. lawn samples cut from the best and worst areas of your yard. The best time to aerate and reseed cool-season grasses (varieties like Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass) is four weeks before the trees lose their leaves in your area. The best time to rejuvenate warm-season grasses (varieties like zoysia grass, bermuda grass, tall fescue and St. Augustine) is late spring. If you follow this plan, you'll give your grass time to germinate, grow and recover from the aeration process before it goes dormant. You'll also be able to establish a fuller, thicker lawn to help keep next season's weed growth to a minimum.

Aerate for compacted soils

Photo 1: Set the depth

Make two passes across the lawn perpendicular to each other with a power core aerator so that the aeration holes are spaced 2 to 3 in. apart. Set the spoon penetration by turning the depth control knob to the deepest setting. For operation on hills and uneven terrain, load or remove one or both onboard weights to increase stability.

Photo 2: Test before you start

Run the aerator in the morning when the turf is cool and moist (but not soggy). You want the aerator's hollow spoons to easily penetrate 1-3/4 in. to 2-1/4 in. into the soil and pull out full-length dirt plugs. If a large, straight-slot screwdriver can't easily penetrate 3 to 4 in. into the soil, the soil is too dry. The day before aerating, water the soil till it passes the screwdriver test. Mow your lawn just before watering and aerating it.

Most lawns, whether seeded or sodded, are planted over a fairly skimpy layer of topsoil. Over time, lawn mowers, pets and pick-up football games compact the soil, making it difficult for air, water and vital nutrients to penetrate to the grass roots. Your challenge: to restore healthy soil conditions that nurture your lawn. To loosen and aerate the soil, rent a power core aerator (Photo 1). They're available at rental centers, plus some hardware stores and garden centers.

In our area, an aerator rents for about $20 per hour. This self-propelled lawn machine employs a row of evenly spaced, hollow, 3/4-in.-dia. spoons that penetrate the soil up to 3 in. deep. They pull out soil plugs, leaving a pattern of holes in the lawn that will readily absorb water, air and nutrients (Photo 1). Our rental power core aerator may differ from what you'll rent, but they all work basically the same. Ask your rental center to demonstrate the machine's controls and the procedures for turning and reversing, then follow these general guidelines:

  • To avoid damaging the aerator's spoons and scarring your sidewalks, driveways or steppingstones, run the machine across them with the rotating spoons in the raised position.
  • Flag and avoid lawn sprinkler heads or you'll risk busting them and springing a leak.
  • Don't use aerators on hillsides with a slope exceeding 35 degrees. For the safest hillside operation, go up and down hills rather than across them.
  • Maximize the perforation spacing in the lawn by following the aeration pattern shown in Photo 1.

Prepare for Seeding

Photo 3: Power rake later in the day

Prepare soil for reseeding using a power rake. Its solid tines (see close-up photo) slash through any thatch mat and score the surface of the soil. Power-rake only after aeration and in the afternoon, after the morning dew has dried—so the dead grass and roots lift out loosely without clumping. Make two opposing passes with the power rake, each 45 degrees across the pattern used by the power aerator. 

Close-up of power rake

Rotating tines pull up lawn thatch to the surface

Photo 4: Hand rake the thatch

Between passes with the power rake, always use a hand rake to loosen dead grass and lawn debris to ensure that new seed or fertilizer will contact the soil. If you reseed your lawn, make two passes with a rotary spreader. Each pass should contain half the recommended lawn seed for your square footage of lawn. Run it after each time you hand-rake in the same direction the power rake slit the soil so more seed can drop into the core holes and slits without being raked off.

Photo 5: Break down the thatch

Feed the soil and accelerate thatch breakdown with a rotary spreader loaded with thatch decomposter mix. We set our spreader at No. 15-16 to broadcast the decomposter mix at a rate to cover 2,000 sq. ft. of yard. If you've reseeded your lawn, apply decomposter mix and a 9-13-7 new lawn fertilizer that contains slow-release nitrogen. After reseeding, water the lawn twice on that first day, 1/4 in. each time. 

Often, older lawns that haven't been aerated and maintained have turf that's scraggly and thin. After power aerating the lawn, your first step to correct this problem is to rent a power rake—a gas-powered lawn machine that's roughly the size of a lawn mower but 1-1/2 times heavier (Photo 3). They're available at rental centers for about $15 an hour. The power rake is much less complex than a core aerator and easier to operate. Ours wasn't self-propelled; we pushed it around the yard. It should be operated at full throttle to maximize the power of the continuously spinning, solid, vertical tines (see Photo 3, inset) that pull dead grass and lawn debris up to the lawn surface, and leave a pattern of 1/4-in. deep slits in the soil surface. Used after the aerator, the power rake will prepare the soil to receive seed and/or fertilizer. Follow these tips for using a power rake:

  • Some power rakes (like ours) have fixed vertical tines for slitting the soil. These are better for penetrating any thatch and getting to the soil surface than loose, “flail-type” tines. Rent a power rake with depth controls that can be set the tines to cut 1/4 in. deep into the soil for seeding.
  • For lawns with smaller areas of bare spots or thinned areas around the perimeter that you can't efficiently power-rake, prepare the soil for seeding by using a flat-nosed shovel to chop slits in the soil 1/4 in. deep. After seeding, use the knuckles on the back of a fan-type rake to “scuff” the seed into the soil.
  • Power rakes work best on lawns with even terrain. On bumpy lawns, a power rake will scalp the high spots and ride over dips in the lawn without cutting the soil.

For a quote please contact (306) 2915303 or email Sara@trustedcanada.com - reference Trusted Regina landscaper

 

Trusted Regina Landscape Expert share a tip on growing Fruits and Vegetables

 

Find Trusted Regina Landscape and lawn professionals HERE

TRUSTED REGINA Landscape & Yard EXPERT 

Interesting article on  growing fruits and vegetables:

For Fruits and Vegetables, agriculture is important in Saskatchewan, but most of what is grown is grains, legumes, and seeds (for oil). The growing season is relatively short, but many farmers use hoop houses, greenhouses, and other methods of extending harvest time, so you may well find local cucumbers in November and other oddities. In any case, winter storage and root vegetables can keep you in local produce all winter long. Availability will, of course, vary based on your location within the large province as well as the specific conditions each season.

 

The growing seasons listed below are based on likely availability in the southern part of the province, including Regina and Saskatoon.

APPLES, July through October

ASPARAGUS, May and June

BASIL, July through September

BEETS, July through March

BLACKBERRIES, July and August

BLUEBERRIES, July and August

BROCCOLI, June into October

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, September through November

CABBAGE, July through March

CARROTS, July through March

CAULIFLOWER, July through September

CELERY, August and September

CHERRIES, July

CORN, July into September

CUCUMBERS, July into September

EGGPLANT, July through September

GREENS, June through October

LETTUCE, June through September

ONIONS, June through September

PEARS, August into October

PEAS, June through September

PEPPERS, July into September

POTATOES, June into October

PUMPKINS, August into November

RADISHES, June through August

RASPBERRIES, July into September

RHUBARB, June into August

SASKATOON BERRIES, July and August

SCALLIONS, August through March

SPINACH, July and August

STRAWBERRIES, June into September

TOMATOES, June into September

TURNIPS, August through March

WINTER SQUASH, August through February

ZUCCHINI, July through September

Information provide by: The Spruce Eats 

Saskatchewan Fruits and Vegetables

What's In Season In Saskatchewan?

By Molly Watson  Updated 10/21/17

www.thespruceeats.com/saskatchewan-fruits-and-vegetables-2215537

Trusted Regina Landscape Expert answers the TrustedRegina.com Facebook Fans

 

 Find TRUSTED REGINA Landscape & Yard EXPERT and TRUSTED REGINA TURF SUPPLIERS here.

 

 

 

Questions for Landscape Solutions

 
Jeanine Rennebohm:

Q: When can we put grass seed or sod down? Keep in mind we have 5ft of snow still in our front yard.
A: Grass seed & Sod can be put down or installed in early spring & Throughout the summer. Remember to keep the new sod or SEED watered for best results. SOD SHOULD BE INSTALLED THE DAY IT IS PURCHASED FOR BEST RESULTS.

Sharon Hoff
Q:What is the best way to encourage an old lawn to look new again? We fertilize and have aerated it as well and it doesn't seem to help!!
A: A lawn can take a lot of pounding, but we still want it to look good. So how should we care for it? See our seasonal hints and tips for lawn care throughout the year.

A: If your yard is busy with children, try to keep the area free of obsticles. A: If your planning on doing some planting or gardening, consider building raised planter boxes out of brick or word. Perfect Turf Synthetic grass is the PERFECT SOLUTION FOR small areas. It will provide you with a well manicured looking yard, without all the work of maintaining natural grass.

Tanya Bill Slowski
Q: When laying landscape rocks/wood what is the best tip to keep the weeds from coming through? Does one do to lessen the work or just for the look. I would rather not use chemicals
A: If your planning on landscaping with Rock or Mulch, make sure to remove any existing grass, Weeds or plants, INCLUDING THE ROOTS. Invest in a commercial grade landscape weed barrier fabric. The fabric is installed between the soil & the rock or mulch.

Terri Silzer
Q: I have a weed filled backyard (which I cut to make look like grass lol) and an uneven ground. Where do I start and what do I do? I have put this off for 5 years now. I need help :o)
A: We Can help you with that Terry! With a weed infested, un-even yard, its best to remove the existing grass and soil, replace and grade your yard with healthy, new black top soil. Once the yard is levelled with the new soil you can either plant seed or install fresh new sod.

Suzanne McKinnon
Q: What is best used for a backyard (rocks or grass) for a home with children and pets? Rocks aren’t the most appealing looking but I'm afraid the grass/sod would die before taking root...
A: For busy backyards such as yours, I would recommend installing PERFECT TURF SYNTHETIC GRASS. It is children safe, pet friendly, & MAINTENANCE FREE!

Stephanie Waffle
Q: What is the weed killer that kills weeds and makes holes in the ground afterward? I think it's a spray. do you know what I mean?
A: There are many different types of weed killer available today. Make sure you know what type of weeds are growing in your yard and treat them accordingly. The small holes and plugs that you see in yards in early spring is from Core Aeration. Core aeration opens up the soil so water, Fertilizer & air can penetrate deep into the soil, which will help grass roots grow deep, resulting in a greener lawn.

Terena Kaeding Palmer
Q: I have a couple of questions! In the last couple of years, our front lawn has become really ugly and weed infested. We want to redo it totally this year. The lawn faces south and has all day sun. Would you recommend sod or seeding grass? What kind of grass/sod should we get?
A: If your budget permits, I suggest laying new sod for best results. Regardless if your putting seed or sod down, remember to keep the area heavily watered for 6-10 days, however don’t saturate the lawn to the point where damage may occur if the lawn is walked on. The best type of sod or Seed to install in our climate is a mixture of Kentucky Bluegrasses & Creeping Red Fescue.

Q: My second question...the neighborhood cats have been using my front flowerbed as a litterbox. What can I do to keep them out?
A: Try Placing Orange peels, scattered throughout the flower bed, on top of the soil. This should help deter them from using your flower bed as a litter box. 

Contact Sara@trustedcanada.com or call (306 2915303) for a quote

Trusted Regina Landscaping Experts share a tip on the key benefits to using Brock Paver Base

Find  TRUSTED REGINA Landscape & Yard EXPERTS here.

 Here they share the Key Benefits to using Brock PaverBase:

- Less destruction of the property and related mess
- Less cost to repair yard damage, such as re-sodding lawns and replacing broken plants
- A less expensive patio when compared to putting in 6-8” of traditional base
- Shortens construction time, which is always a good thing
- Better guarantees on the patio

 

  

Frequently Asked Questions about Brock PaverBase 

Brock PaverBase system characteristics when compared to traditional base construction 

Q: Can Brock PaverBase really spread the load over the sub-grade so the patio will stay flat?
A: A 250 lb weight placed on a single paver over Brock PaverBase results in less than 7 psi on ground. Because it comes in panels, it is a great load spreader.

Q: What happens to the material over time? Does it degrade?
A: Polypropylene has a LONG life and is proven in many construction materials, such as pipes, geofabrics and rope. It is chosen because of its durability and its resistance to mold, bacteria, decay, cracking and in the case of pavers, compression.

Q: A stone base has insulating properties and protects the ground from freezing and heaving. How does Brock deal with this?
A: 20mm PaverBase provides the same thermal insulation properties of 9” stone. It has the same “R” value as EPS so it is essentially similar to the Polystyrene used to insulate houses, only much more durable to withstand a paver application.

Q: Does Brock PaverBase drain?
A: Brock Paver base, with a vertical permeability rate of over 100” per hour, and far exceeds the permeability rate of the pavers themselves. Brock PaverBase also drains both vertically and horizontally to move water quickly away from the area.

Q: How much do the panels weigh?
A: A bundle of Brock PaverBase panels that covers a 55 Square foot area weights 12 lbs. That is about 1/100th the weight of the stone required over the same area. You can put 600 square feet of base in the back of a pick-up truck, and one person can move it.

Q: How do I cut the material to fit?
A: Brock PaverBase can be cut with a razor knife for curves and edges, so no special tools are required.

 

 

 

Learn how to install Perfect Turf...

Become a DIY pro... 

We are often asked if its hard to install our synthetic turf products, Our response, “Its fairly simple, if you have the right instructions, tools and guidance. Our DIY PRO training will teach you all the important fundamentals of how to properly prepare the area and install our synthetic turf. Like any project, there are special tools required, don’t worry, WE GOT YOU COVERED! With our tool rentals, instruction manuals and local support, you’ll will be ready to install like the PROS!

 

Key topics of a perfect install:

Excavation & Soil Preperation: Removing the existing landscape and preparing the ground for the base material.

Building the base:  This is THE most IMPORTANT aspect of the installation. Key topics we will discuss; drainage and positive grade; leveling and compaction; types of edging.

Installing the Turf: This is when the fun part really begins! Key topics discussed are; Power-brooming; Advanced seaming techniques; cutting around edges; anchoring & securing the turf; infill application; Popular “Do’s & Dont’s” discussions, PLUS MUCH MORE!!

Spring & Fall Clean-up: Much-like everything in your home, a little maintenance and regular cleaning will keep your investments looking great & last for years. We will discuss the proper tools and techniques for your seasonal clean-up.

To help your project go smoothly, we are pleased to offer our “Curb Side” Waste removal & product delivery services, as well as our exclusive turf tool rental centre. Rest assured, from start to finish, we are here to ensure your turf project installs smoothly!

 For a quote contact Sara@trustedcanada.com and reference Regina landscaping

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