Trusted Tips and Resources

Trusted Tips & Resources

Trusted Regina Landscape Contractors at Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions are Regina Retaining Wall Experts

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions Ltd. is your Trusted Regina landscaping company. They have helped many customers achieve the yards they have always dreamed of. In their latest Trusted Regina Landscaping Tip, they share some wonderful advice on Regina retaining walls! 

Regina Retaining Wall Options

A retaining wall is a specially designed structure that holds soil on one side and is free-standing on the other. Retaining walls are commonly used when two areas on a property are at different elevations, and there is a desire to transition from one elevation to the other in a short distance—shorter than can be used if the land is just sloped instead.

Deciding on which kind of retaining wall to use depends on a myriad of factors. Remember, you have access to a wide selection of materials and designs to achieve a design you love! Consider your budget, style and retaining requirements when deciding between these popular retaining wall ideas.

“Retaining walls are usually thought of as utilitarian and for merely holding back soil. While this is true, you can also use them to create beautiful outdoor living spaces and to create multi-use spaces.” Monte Dobson, Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions Regina.

Stone or Boulder Retaining Walls

By concreting stones or boulders in a tessellating pattern, a solid wall can be used as a rustic, natural retaining wall.  While quite strong, this may not be the best approach for walls retaining large amounts of soil, especially if done DIY.

Brick Retaining Walls 

Strong and sturdy, brick walls are a traditional choice of retaining walls.

They need concrete strip footings before the wall is erected on top of it to ensure it can bear the weight of what it’s retaining, and require a keen eye for detail, constant level-checking and a couple of weeks to complete, making them best left to a qualified tradesperson rather than a DIY job.

For a more modern look, a render can be applied, however, this will drive up the price on an already expensive project.


Block Retaining Walls

With block retaining walls, base trenches must be dug prior to construction. Interlocking blocks can be sourced, eradicating the need for mortar or bonding supplies, and can be found in a variety of shapes, depending on your requirements. The blocks themselves can be quite heavy and rough, so if this is a DIY project, safety provisions such as steel-capped boots and work gloves are recommended. If you suffer from back problems, or if the wall is taller than hip-height, consider having them installed professionally by a Regina retaining wall pro.


Timber Retaining Wall

Timber/wood retaining walls offer ease of installation and reduced cost and provide a rustic, natural aesthetic to your space. However, timber cannot retain as much weight as other products and may not be able to reach the heights you need. They’re also susceptible to rotting, warping, splitting or termites over time, and treatments must be applied pre-installation and retreated over the course of its life, raising its level of maintenance.


Gabion Basket

Usually used in commercial applications, wire Gabion baskets are making a chic comeback as residential retaining walls. They can be a durable, cheap alternative to concrete, and you can get creative about how you fill them. However, they take up a large amount of room and do require wide strip footings, making it unsuitable for tight spaces or properties looking to make the most of their space

Retaining walls are divided into two types divided by their height. Walls under four feet are designed and built by your contractor or per a landscape architect’s drawing. Retaining walls over four feet require much larger footings due to the increased lateral earth pressure. It must be designed by an engineer who will specify the size and extent of footings and the amount of steel reinforcement required according to strict loading calculations.

Retaining walls don’t have to be perfectly straight. Add a curve to dress up the design and to add a little more texture to your landscape. The retaining wall design below would be perfect at a lakefront cabin in Saskatchewan

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions Ltd. Ltd. is your one-stop Regina landscaping company. They have experience working on several large and small-scale commercial project.

In addition to landscape design, hardscaping and artificial turf, they also do conventional seeding and are suppliers of landscape supply products. They sell all types of turfgrass seed, native grass seed and low maintenance grass seed products.

Their professional Trusted Regina hydroseeding and landscaping team offers innovative re-vegetation, grass seeding, dust control, reclamation, landscaping and erosion control solutions and hydroseeding for all types of residential, commercial, government, industrial and oilfield projects.

Rapid Lawn Landscape Solutions has several tips to help you with your landscaping.

2014 Trusted Regina Contractor show

Trusted the Regina  Directory   is proud to be hosting a Talk to the Experts show " The Trusted Show' Monthly on Newstalk 980 ..the first show aired in Sept 2012  Find them all here in our tips library or on our Trusted Channel on You Tube which is a fabulous resource of Tips, Interviews, Demos and Tours.

What this means is you can listen to all the shows ON DEMAND, you can share them with friends who may be interested in the shows subjects and this makes sure you never have to miss a Trusted Show - we think out of the Box when it comes to marketing, so we can provide the BEST Possible service for YOU the public- we are the Only Local Directory that works for you...and the only  place to offer this kind of service in Regina or Saskatoon !  

This latest show we are featuring is the 2014 Trusted Contractor show! 




This months guests are :

Al Shick Trusted Regina contractor.

Kam from Adrenaline Roofing Trusted Regina Roofing experts

Monte from Rapid Lawn Hydroseeding & Landscaping Trusted Regina turf, lawn & landscaping experts

Find them all on the Regina directory of Excellence



All the shows questions have been submitted by our wonderful Trusted Regina Facebook Fans  and one lucky fans question was chosen by Sean Dean to win the Prize package submitted by the 3 Trusted Businesses worth  OVER $500

Enjoy the show!! 



Trusted Regina Landscape Expert share a great tip on Composting


Here we share an interesting article on Composting in response to a Facebook fan question:

Turn your green waste into nature's gold 

Tending the garden keeps on producing quantities of plant debris that take up space. What's the best thing to do with garden refuse like grass cuttings, tree and hedge trimmings, leaves and withered flowers?

Green recycling


Our VIKING garden shredders will tidy up your garden. Their innovative technology, high reliability and easy handling are the result of more than 25 years' accumulated technical know-how. The high-quality cutting systems chop up all kinds of garden waste. Unwieldy branches and bushy twigs are quickly chopped up into easy-to-handle plant residue which you can simply dispose of or re-use as a compost base.  


The intelligent solution


The cuttings can be used to make environmentally friendly compost. The composted shreddings can be recycled as a valuable natural fertilizer. Turn your garden waste into home-made fertilizer. Mulch and compost contain a number of valuable raw materials that supply your garden soil with important nutrients in a totally natural way.

Ten rules for good compost

  • Gather the correct proportions of nitrogenous (‘green') and carbonaceous (‘brown') plant trimmings – mixing lawn clippings with woody cuttings for example.
  • Remember compost needs air. Never lay the material in a trench and do not use containers which are closed on all sides.
  • Do not place the compost heap on a solid base made of stone, concrete, etc. The compost needs an ‘earth connection', so that earthworms and small organisms can penetrate it.
  • Create order in your compost heap. For the bottom layer, pile up coarse shredded material – approximately 20cm high. On top of this add mixed, finer materials such as leaves or shredded material.
  • Thinly spread lawn clippings – to prevent the danger of decay!
  • Always cover kitchen waste with soil, as it attracts vermin.
  • Avoid totally dry conditions as micro-organisms in compost heaps need moisture.
  • Do not water the compost excessively.
  • Cover up the finished compost heap.
  • Earthworms are beneficial to your compost heap and are attracted by phlox and elder for example. Onion skins, chive residues, ground coffee and tea leaves are also favorite foods for earthworms. 


The composting process takes several months, depending on the time of year and the ambient temperature. When the compost has matured it should smell pleasantly of forest soil and fungus.

Tips :

  • If you put shredded waste on a compost heap, subsequent turning over is no longer required.
  • Passing waste material repeatedly through your garden shredder provides optimal mixing and aeration. Shredding waste before placing it on the compost heap speeds up decomposition as it increases the surface area open to attack by microbes and decomposition agents.


Trusted Regina landscape expert share a tip on how to revive a thinning lawn


Find Trusted Regina Landscape and lawn professionals HERE


Here's great article on how to revive a thinning lawn in response to a Facebook fan question: 


Lawn looking thin, bare or brown? You can revitalize it in a weekend using just one or two tools from a local rental or garden center. The power core aerator (Photos 1 and 2) loosens any compacted soil in your yard and breaks up thatch. Thatch is a cushion of old, partially decayed grass roots and stems that develop in many sodded lawns (Figure A). It separates the actively growing crown of the grass plant from the soil surface.

The power rake (Photo 3) is equipped with vertical fixed tines to cut the soil and prepare a thinned-out lawn for reseeding.

For you Northern homeowners whose lawns experience a hard freezing winter, the first dew in August is your signal that it's time to aerate to ensure lush grass next spring. For homeowners in warmer or more arid states, aerate your lawn next spring to boost those warm-climate grass varieties before they go dormant in mid-summer. 

Make a Plan: Examine your yard

Power aerators and power rakes can usually be rented by the hour, half day or day. Because these two machines are in high demand (especially on weekends), ensure that your work plan will flow uninterrupted by reserving both machines in advance. Save some money by first renting the aerator, then picking up the power rake when you drop off the aerator. Rejuvenate your lawn using these strategies:

  • Budget your time: You should be able to aerate and power rake up to 5,000 sq. ft. in three to four hours.
  • Avoid renting aerators that are equipped with spikes and only roll over the lawn and perforate it. The core aerators that actually remove soil plugs—like the one shown—are vastly superior because they open up more soil volume.
  • Recruit a buddy who has either a pickup truck or a minivan to help wrangle these heavy lawn machines home and back to the rental center. Inquire whether your rental center offers delivery and pickup (at additional cost).
  • If your grass is thinned out, adopt a more aggressive plan for total lawn rejuvenation by following the steps shown in Photos 3 and 4.
  • If your lawn has excess thatch or you've laid new seed, use the spreader and apply decomposter mix to both accelerate the decay of thatch left in the turf and increase seed germination and rooting (Photo 5).
  • Complete any plan by watering your lawn with up to 1/2 in. of water for thin lawns and 1/4 in. for bare soil. Over-watering will wash away the seed and nutrients.

If you've never used an aerator or a power rake, practice on an isolated section of your yard. The first time I used a power core aerator, it nearly dragged me off the lawn and into the street. My uncle still enjoys recounting that story.

Figure A: Revitalize your lawn

How Compaction and Excess Thatch Ruin Your Lawn

The zone where grass meets soil is an amazing micro world of plant roots, bacteria, insects and complex chemical reactions. Healthy soil is soil that's loose enough to allow air, water and nutrients to pass into it to foster plant growth. Keep these concepts in mind:

Compacted soil strangles roots
The causes are many: In existing lawns, the top 1 to 1-1/2 in. of soil becomes compacted over time from foot traffic, riding lawn mowers, high clay content and rain. New lawns often have problems—beginning with home construction or remodeling—when topsoil is bulldozed, remixed with subsoil and over-compacted. Sod lawns that are hastily laid over unevenly graded lots look good enough for the contractors to get paid, but they can manifest problems after one or two growing seasons. In both cases, the eventual outcome is choked and starved grass roots.

Too much thatch chokes the lawn
Thatch is a tightly woven layer of partially decomposed grass roots and stems that can develop over several years in the zone between the crown of the grass and the soil surface. Contrary to myth, grass clippings don't contribute to thatch buildup, and power raking doesn't cure it. Thatch becomes a problem when it's thicker than 1/4 in. It's a sign that lawns have been over-watered at night, damaged by drought, over-fertilized with high nitrogen fertilizer or that the soil is too alkaline. Thatch occurs most often in new lawns when sod is installed over dips and voids in the regraded yard or in poor or improperly prepared soil and is then incorrectly watered. Break down excess thatch by using a rotary spreader loaded with thatch decomposter mix on the lawn (Photo 5).

You can reverse the damage
Revitalize compacted soils once a year. Run a power core aerator over the lawn to pull up plugs of dirt, creating voids in the subterranean soil to provide space for and stimulate new root growth (Figure A). The slashing action of the power rake's vertical tines slits the soil's surface where seed, nutrients and water can combine to regenerate the lawn.

America is serious about growing grass. Since the mid-'90s, the total acreage of lawns (homes, golf courses, businesses, etc.) has exceeded the amount of land used for agriculture. Soil types and grass varieties differ by climate and region. Learn more about your soils, grass varieties and recommended lawn care practices by talking with experts at garden centers or a county extension agent. For a more complete lawn assessment, take along two 4 x 4 x 4-in. lawn samples cut from the best and worst areas of your yard. The best time to aerate and reseed cool-season grasses (varieties like Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass) is four weeks before the trees lose their leaves in your area. The best time to rejuvenate warm-season grasses (varieties like zoysia grass, bermuda grass, tall fescue and St. Augustine) is late spring. If you follow this plan, you'll give your grass time to germinate, grow and recover from the aeration process before it goes dormant. You'll also be able to establish a fuller, thicker lawn to help keep next season's weed growth to a minimum.

Aerate for compacted soils

Photo 1: Set the depth

Make two passes across the lawn perpendicular to each other with a power core aerator so that the aeration holes are spaced 2 to 3 in. apart. Set the spoon penetration by turning the depth control knob to the deepest setting. For operation on hills and uneven terrain, load or remove one or both onboard weights to increase stability.

Photo 2: Test before you start

Run the aerator in the morning when the turf is cool and moist (but not soggy). You want the aerator's hollow spoons to easily penetrate 1-3/4 in. to 2-1/4 in. into the soil and pull out full-length dirt plugs. If a large, straight-slot screwdriver can't easily penetrate 3 to 4 in. into the soil, the soil is too dry. The day before aerating, water the soil till it passes the screwdriver test. Mow your lawn just before watering and aerating it.

Most lawns, whether seeded or sodded, are planted over a fairly skimpy layer of topsoil. Over time, lawn mowers, pets and pick-up football games compact the soil, making it difficult for air, water and vital nutrients to penetrate to the grass roots. Your challenge: to restore healthy soil conditions that nurture your lawn. To loosen and aerate the soil, rent a power core aerator (Photo 1). They're available at rental centers, plus some hardware stores and garden centers.

In our area, an aerator rents for about $20 per hour. This self-propelled lawn machine employs a row of evenly spaced, hollow, 3/4-in.-dia. spoons that penetrate the soil up to 3 in. deep. They pull out soil plugs, leaving a pattern of holes in the lawn that will readily absorb water, air and nutrients (Photo 1). Our rental power core aerator may differ from what you'll rent, but they all work basically the same. Ask your rental center to demonstrate the machine's controls and the procedures for turning and reversing, then follow these general guidelines:

  • To avoid damaging the aerator's spoons and scarring your sidewalks, driveways or steppingstones, run the machine across them with the rotating spoons in the raised position.
  • Flag and avoid lawn sprinkler heads or you'll risk busting them and springing a leak.
  • Don't use aerators on hillsides with a slope exceeding 35 degrees. For the safest hillside operation, go up and down hills rather than across them.
  • Maximize the perforation spacing in the lawn by following the aeration pattern shown in Photo 1.

Prepare for Seeding

Photo 3: Power rake later in the day

Prepare soil for reseeding using a power rake. Its solid tines (see close-up photo) slash through any thatch mat and score the surface of the soil. Power-rake only after aeration and in the afternoon, after the morning dew has dried—so the dead grass and roots lift out loosely without clumping. Make two opposing passes with the power rake, each 45 degrees across the pattern used by the power aerator. 

Close-up of power rake

Rotating tines pull up lawn thatch to the surface

Photo 4: Hand rake the thatch

Between passes with the power rake, always use a hand rake to loosen dead grass and lawn debris to ensure that new seed or fertilizer will contact the soil. If you reseed your lawn, make two passes with a rotary spreader. Each pass should contain half the recommended lawn seed for your square footage of lawn. Run it after each time you hand-rake in the same direction the power rake slit the soil so more seed can drop into the core holes and slits without being raked off.

Photo 5: Break down the thatch

Feed the soil and accelerate thatch breakdown with a rotary spreader loaded with thatch decomposter mix. We set our spreader at No. 15-16 to broadcast the decomposter mix at a rate to cover 2,000 sq. ft. of yard. If you've reseeded your lawn, apply decomposter mix and a 9-13-7 new lawn fertilizer that contains slow-release nitrogen. After reseeding, water the lawn twice on that first day, 1/4 in. each time. 

Often, older lawns that haven't been aerated and maintained have turf that's scraggly and thin. After power aerating the lawn, your first step to correct this problem is to rent a power rake—a gas-powered lawn machine that's roughly the size of a lawn mower but 1-1/2 times heavier (Photo 3). They're available at rental centers for about $15 an hour. The power rake is much less complex than a core aerator and easier to operate. Ours wasn't self-propelled; we pushed it around the yard. It should be operated at full throttle to maximize the power of the continuously spinning, solid, vertical tines (see Photo 3, inset) that pull dead grass and lawn debris up to the lawn surface, and leave a pattern of 1/4-in. deep slits in the soil surface. Used after the aerator, the power rake will prepare the soil to receive seed and/or fertilizer. Follow these tips for using a power rake:

  • Some power rakes (like ours) have fixed vertical tines for slitting the soil. These are better for penetrating any thatch and getting to the soil surface than loose, “flail-type” tines. Rent a power rake with depth controls that can be set the tines to cut 1/4 in. deep into the soil for seeding.
  • For lawns with smaller areas of bare spots or thinned areas around the perimeter that you can't efficiently power-rake, prepare the soil for seeding by using a flat-nosed shovel to chop slits in the soil 1/4 in. deep. After seeding, use the knuckles on the back of a fan-type rake to “scuff” the seed into the soil.
  • Power rakes work best on lawns with even terrain. On bumpy lawns, a power rake will scalp the high spots and ride over dips in the lawn without cutting the soil.

For a quote please contact (306) 2915303 or email - reference Trusted Regina landscaper


Trusted Regina Landscape Expert answers the Facebook Fans






Questions for Landscape Solutions

Jeanine Rennebohm:

Q: When can we put grass seed or sod down? Keep in mind we have 5ft of snow still in our front yard.
A: Grass seed & Sod can be put down or installed in early spring & Throughout the summer. Remember to keep the new sod or SEED watered for best results. SOD SHOULD BE INSTALLED THE DAY IT IS PURCHASED FOR BEST RESULTS.

Sharon Hoff
Q:What is the best way to encourage an old lawn to look new again? We fertilize and have aerated it as well and it doesn't seem to help!!
A: A lawn can take a lot of pounding, but we still want it to look good. So how should we care for it? See our seasonal hints and tips for lawn care throughout the year.

A: If your yard is busy with children, try to keep the area free of obsticles. A: If your planning on doing some planting or gardening, consider building raised planter boxes out of brick or word. Perfect Turf Synthetic grass is the PERFECT SOLUTION FOR small areas. It will provide you with a well manicured looking yard, without all the work of maintaining natural grass.

Tanya Bill Slowski
Q: When laying landscape rocks/wood what is the best tip to keep the weeds from coming through? Does one do to lessen the work or just for the look. I would rather not use chemicals
A: If your planning on landscaping with Rock or Mulch, make sure to remove any existing grass, Weeds or plants, INCLUDING THE ROOTS. Invest in a commercial grade landscape weed barrier fabric. The fabric is installed between the soil & the rock or mulch.

Terri Silzer
Q: I have a weed filled backyard (which I cut to make look like grass lol) and an uneven ground. Where do I start and what do I do? I have put this off for 5 years now. I need help :o)
A: We Can help you with that Terry! With a weed infested, un-even yard, its best to remove the existing grass and soil, replace and grade your yard with healthy, new black top soil. Once the yard is levelled with the new soil you can either plant seed or install fresh new sod.

Suzanne McKinnon
Q: What is best used for a backyard (rocks or grass) for a home with children and pets? Rocks aren’t the most appealing looking but I'm afraid the grass/sod would die before taking root...
A: For busy backyards such as yours, I would recommend installing PERFECT TURF SYNTHETIC GRASS. It is children safe, pet friendly, & MAINTENANCE FREE!

Stephanie Waffle
Q: What is the weed killer that kills weeds and makes holes in the ground afterward? I think it's a spray. do you know what I mean?
A: There are many different types of weed killer available today. Make sure you know what type of weeds are growing in your yard and treat them accordingly. The small holes and plugs that you see in yards in early spring is from Core Aeration. Core aeration opens up the soil so water, Fertilizer & air can penetrate deep into the soil, which will help grass roots grow deep, resulting in a greener lawn.

Terena Kaeding Palmer
Q: I have a couple of questions! In the last couple of years, our front lawn has become really ugly and weed infested. We want to redo it totally this year. The lawn faces south and has all day sun. Would you recommend sod or seeding grass? What kind of grass/sod should we get?
A: If your budget permits, I suggest laying new sod for best results. Regardless if your putting seed or sod down, remember to keep the area heavily watered for 6-10 days, however don’t saturate the lawn to the point where damage may occur if the lawn is walked on. The best type of sod or Seed to install in our climate is a mixture of Kentucky Bluegrasses & Creeping Red Fescue.

Q: My second question...the neighborhood cats have been using my front flowerbed as a litterbox. What can I do to keep them out?
A: Try Placing Orange peels, scattered throughout the flower bed, on top of the soil. This should help deter them from using your flower bed as a litter box. 

Contact or call (306 2915303) for a quote


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